It was my first visit to Indore, a city I had wanted to visit for years. When I asked about places worth visiting, I was told that in addition to the fort and chattris, or memorials, I should also visit a unique night-time food bazaar. I was directed first to the splendidly carved royal chattris on the banks of the Khan River, and from there to the majestic Fort Rajwada, located in the most crowded area of the old city. A tall arched gateway marks the entrance to the Fort, where inside there are splendid palaces with exquisitely carved pillars, arches and balconies, all quite well maintained; some of the construction appears very recent indeed. The streets surrounding the Fort's high walls are full of shops, selling everything under the sun.

The food market that comes alive every evening in the streets behind the Fort only begins to function after 8 pm. I was also told that to really appreciate the transformation that takes place, I should take a look at the area in the daytime. So after visiting the Rajwada, I decided to take a walk along this narrow behind the Fort. Lined by jewellery shops on either side, I had an enjoyable afternoon wandering up and down the street and even making some purchases.

Back at the hotel, I waited rather impatiently for nightfall to go back to the Rajwada. I had only been away for three hours, but the miracle had happened. The jeweller's gali had transformed itself into a busy street-food bazaar. Kiosks, banners, signboards and stalls had appeared as if by magic. The air was full of the smell and sizzle of frying puris and kachoris. People were already beginning to make their purchases and Pani Puris were being handed out to families with children.

The 'Chappan Gali', which is only one of the names by which this street is known, has been functioning in this fashion for years. The food bazaar offers families a reason to go out and eat to their heart's content without making a major dent in their pockets, and is also a great leveler because one can only reach the gali on foot, the lanes being far too narrow for cars.

There were plenty of shops selling Pav Bhaji, Kachoris, Rabri, Kalakand, Rasgullas and Mawa Bati. And all the shops selling sweets appeared to be named after Gods - Sri Krishna Mishthan Bhandar, Jai Bajrang Mishthan Bhandar, Sri Ganesh Mithai, Sri Gopal Misthan Bhandar – apparently no one was taking any chances with blessings from their favourite Gods!